If you’re tired of shaving, waxing, or dealing with stubble, laser hair removal probably sounds like a dream come true. But how does it actually work—and why does it seem to work miracles for some, but not for others? Let’s break it down in plain terms.
The Science Behind the Beam
Laser hair removal uses a focused beam of light to target the pigment (melanin) in your hair. When the laser pulses, the melanin in the hair absorbs that light and turns it into heat. This heat travels down the hair shaft and damages the hair follicle—the little tube in your skin that sprouts new hairs. The idea is to damage the follicle enough that it can’t grow new hair, or at least not for a long time.
This process is called selective photothermolysis—fancy words for “selective heating with light.” The laser targets the hair and not the skin, so it’s safe and time-tested, especially when done by a professional.
Why Does It Work Better for Some People?
You might have heard that laser hair removal is “best for dark hair and light skin.” There’s truth to that, but it’s not the whole story.
Hair Color Matters
The laser needs something to grab onto—that’s the pigment in your hair. Dark, coarse hair has lots of melanin, so the laser can easily find and zap it. Blonde, red, gray, or white hair has less pigment, so the laser can’t do its job as well.
Skin Type Plays a Role
The best results come when there’s a big difference between your skin color and hair color. That’s why people with light skin and dark hair usually see the most dramatic results. But thanks to advances in laser technology, people with darker skin can also get great results. Just make sure you’re seeing someone who knows how to use the right equipment. We use the Nd:Yag laser, the gold standard for removing hair on tan, brown, and dark brown skin.
Hair Growth Cycles
Not all your hair is growing at the same time. Hair goes through different phases, and the laser only works on hairs that are actively growing (the “anagen” phase). Typically ⅓ of your hair is in the anagen phase at one time. That’s why you need several sessions—to catch all the hairs as they cycle through growth–and those cycles should be timed strategically to catch each cycle of hair at the right time.
Hormones and Health
If you have hormonal issues (like PCOS) or are going through big changes (like pregnancy), your body might keep sprouting new hairs, making the laser less effective or requiring more sessions. This is also why fewer treatments are typically required on the arms (non-hormonal) than on the bikini area, which is hormonally controlled.
A Few Things to Consider if Your Treatments Aren’t Working
If you’ve had a few sessions and don’t see much difference, here’s what could be happening:
- Your Hair or Skin Color Isn’t a Good Match: If your hair is too light or your skin is too dark (without the right laser), the treatment might not be effective. Examples include:
- Someone with a skin tone of Fitzpatrick type 6 whose hair is nearly the same color as their skin.
- People with grey or white hair.
- Peach fuzz – it’s way too light to guarantee results!
- You’re Not in the Right Growth Phase: Since hair grows in cycles, some hairs might be “sleeping” during your session and not get zapped. For example, getting treatments apart from each other (in the same area) wouldn’t leave enough time for new hairs to come in, making the second treatment ineffective.
- Your Hormones are Taking Control: Hormones can trigger new hair growth, so even if you’ve had successful treatments, new hairs can pop up later. Lasers will work on existing hairs, but they don’t prevent hormones from creating new ones.
- Your Technician is Using the Wrong Equipment: The type of laser and the skill of the person doing the treatment matter a lot. At-home devices and inexperienced providers will not give you the best results. You’ll want your provider to use a diode laser like the Candela (typically with a goldish-yellow tip). If you have brown skin, they should be using the Nd:Yag for the best results.
When Should You See Results?
Don’t expect to walk out of your first session hair-free. Here’s what usually happens:
- After the First Session: You might notice some or most hairs falling out. These hairs were hit by the laser and are dead or damaged (yay!)
- After a Few Weeks: Your next cycle of hairs will grow in. These hairs likely weren’t impacted by the laser, and they may appear normal thickness and color.
- After a Few Sessions: Most people start to see a real difference after 3–6 sessions, spaced a few weeks apart. Hair grows back slower, finer, and sparser. Many report little to no hairs growing back at all! You may require more sessions for a full “hairless” look.
- Long-Term Results: After your initial round of treatments, many people report lasting results for years, after which you’ll probably need occasional touch-ups. The goal is “permanent hair reduction,” not necessarily “permanent removal”.
The Bottom Line
Laser hair removal is a game-changer for a lot of people, but it’s not magic. It works best when you stick to the recommended schedule and when you’re treated by someone who knows what they’re doing using the best equipment. If you’re not seeing results, it could be due to your hair type, skin tone, hormones, or even the equipment being used.
If you’re curious about whether laser hair removal is right for you, talk to a qualified provider at Laser Affair. We can help you figure out what to expect and how to get the best results for your situation.